PROS
- Extremely comfortable
- All-around performance
- Seem to accommodate wider feet well
- Fair price point
- Amazing smearer
CONS
- Poor on overhangs
- Lackluster hooking and sensitivity
Let's Take a Closer Look
What Do NIAD and VCS Stand For?
First, I’d like to answer a glaring question that some folks probably have, which will help us understand this shoe better.
This is a shoe with two acronyms back to back. NIAD VCS. A bit confusing, yeah?
NIAD stands for “Nose in a Day”. This references one of the world’s most iconic rock climbs: “The Nose” on El Capitan (VI 5.9 C2). The 3,000-foot route was first climbed in a day by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay in 1975. Lynn Hill went on to free the route in 1993. (If you haven’t read Long’s iconic short story detailing the climb, it’s a must).
In one sense, NIAD is just a name, but in another, it gives us a bit of insight into what Five Ten was doing with this shoe. The NIAD tries to be a long-haul model. Big routes, eight-hour crag days, nonstop gym sessions… Comfort and full-spectrum performance are the priorities here. (That said, the shoe’s alternative closure models [see below] perform better for big routes than the Velcro closure, which is more geared to gym and crag.)
Next question. What does VCS stand for?
The NIAD is a model with three variants. The VCS refers to the specific hook and loop closure system of the shoe: Velcro Closure System (VCS). In addition to the VCS, the NIAD also comes in a slipper model called the NIAD Moccasym, and a lace-up model called the NIAD Lace.
Our Methods and Tester
My name is Owen Clarke. I’ve been rock climbing for 15 years, and reviewing climbing shoes and other gear professionally for six. I’ve written shoe reviews for industry-leading climbing publications, including Rock and Ice, Climbing, Gym Climber, and Outside, in addition to a wealth of smaller industry blogs and websites such as Moja Gear, Climbing House, and, more recently, FlashPumped. My writing appears in over 50 international magazines, including other climbing publications like Alpinist, Gripped, Climax, and HowNot2.
I’ve worn the Five Ten Niad VCS climbing shoes for the better part of six months, putting them to the test on sport, bouldering, and gym climbing. The comments and opinions expressed here are honest, my own, and neither I (nor FlashPumped) were compensated by Five Ten for this review. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me via my website, and stay tuned here for more gear reviews!
Usage
The Five Ten NIAD VCS climbing shoes are best used on low to vertical terrain for gym climbing, sport, and bouldering. They excel at smearing, and in general offer solid performance across the board. Downsides are on steep terrain, or on technical sequences such as demanding hooking or cracks. (The slipper or lace variations of the NIAD will perform better on the latter.)
Edging
These are moderately stiff shoes, with more stiffness over the forefoot than the midfoot (which is where the flex comes). This makes the NIAD VCS retain a solid amount of power when edging, although the toe box is a bit roomy, and some folks find the Velcro closure to make it hard to dial in the fit. This may come down to case-by-case, and wasn’t something that bothered me much.
Overall, the shoe is stiff enough to support an above-average edging, but doesn’t offer the aggressive, forward-to-the-toes propulsion of a slingshot rand or more high-performance design.
(As a result, it also doesn’t sport the crippling toe box of many high-end shoes, which is a massive PLUS for comfort.)
Smearing
I loved smearing in the NIAD VCS. I felt the Moccasym (slipper version) smears a bit better, which is the only reason I didn’t give it a 10/10, but in general both these shoes smoosh out quite well without throwing edging to the wind, and the Stealth C4 rubber gives bomber grip on all manner of blank foot placements. As to be expected, a neutral camber facilitates maximum surface coverage. I heartily recommend these for slab.
Heel & Toe Performance
I appreciate the added rubber toe patch on the NIAD VCS, which runs up high on the interior, nearly to the midfoot closure, but I didn’t feel either the toe or heel was particularly dialed for hooking. The heel cup on the NIAD VCS is certainly better than the old shoe (Anasazi VCS), and this is by no means a bad shoe for hooking, but it isn’t one I’d choose for really technically demanding or overhung lines.
Overhangs
This is the NIAD VCS weak point. It’s a neutral, symmetrical shoe, and you aren’t getting power channeled over the forefoot and toes, so it can be hard to really put in the work on micro edges and pockets when you’re at a bad angle. The toe is also a bit bulky. Overall I’d say overhangs are one of the few scenarios where the NIAD VCS doesn’t live up to that “do it all” reputation.
Sensitivity
The NIAD is on the thinner side as far as climbing shoes go (3.5mm), but it’s not a particularly sensitive shoe either. I’m not sure why this is, perhaps it’s the stiffer forefoot or the neutral last, but regardless, if you’re expecting to feel every placement, you’ll be disappointed. The NIAD fits and feels much more like a TC Pro in that regard.
Comfort
The NIAD VCS (and all the NIAD family really) are incredibly comfortable shoes, particularly for folks with a wider foot and toe shape. The toe box is roomy, the shoe is neutral and (almost) symmetrical, and the Velcro closure makes it easy to loosen, tighten, and slip on/off in a jiffy over a long crag day. I give these 10/10 for comfort. Not much else to say!
Value for Money
At $150, the Five Ten NIAD VCS climbing shoes sit middle-of-the-road in the price field. You can probably find a more high-performance shoe for a lower price, but if comfort and versatility are your primary goals, this shoe has good value for the money.
Technical Details
- Sole Thickness: 3.5mm
- Rubber: Stealth C4
- Lining/Upper: Microfiber
- Midsole: Medium stiff (2mm Bontex)
- Last: Board-lasted
- Closure: Velcro Hook and Loop (Two Strap)
- Design: Symmetrical & Neutral (Flat)
- Rigidity: Moderate
- Weight: 9.14oz
- Fit: Standard
How to Size Five Ten NIADs: Street Shoe Size or Up
Most Five Ten shoes run true to street size, but the NIAD VCS climbing shoes actually run a bit small, according to most customers. I didn’t run into this issue with my pair (I went with my street size), but I certainly would not downsize these shoes. Purchase street size or a half/full size up.
