Simon Lorenzi repeats Burden Of Dreams 9A

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Just before the end of 2023, Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi established the third ascent of the infamous Burden of Dreams boulder.

Located in Lappor, Finland, Burden of Dreams (9A) is one of the hardest problems in the world to date, if not the hardest. FAd by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016, this 8-move problem wasn’t repeated until April 2023 by Will Bosi.

Considered the first 9A boulder in the world, Burden is a 4-meter slab of granite oriented at an exact angle of 45 degrees that features what Nalle called the hardest starting move that he has ever attempted. 

The route starts with two opposing sharp crimps and two sketchy foot-holds, one on a little chip and the right foot fully extended on a slick edge. This is followed by a series of small crimps and micro-crystals that lead to the already iconic penultimate move, a dyno to a sloper under the top ledge.

For this project, Simon spent over a month in Finland, having around 25 sessions while battling snow, bad weather conditions, and mental struggles because Burden doesn’t give you many shots until it rips your skin. 

Although Simon used a gym replica to train for the real deal, it was not as useful as he expected as he didn’t have quite the exact measurements.

Different from Nalle’s and Bosi’s approaches, Simon found what’s considered to be new beta. Instead of matching on the left-hand crimp after the first move, he used a high left foot to put a drop knee, thus avoiding the direct beta, which implies a rather hard move. 

After climbing Burden and previously sending Soudain Seul and Alphane, Simon Lorenzi is the first climber in history to successfully ascended three 9A boulders.

Featured image: @simonlorenzi/@gilles.charlier

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