US Climber and CERN anti-matter researcher Siara Fabbri has just sent her second 8B+, joining the list of just eleven women who have climbed multiple 8B+ boulders or harder.
Just last week, on October 6th, Siara sent Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. A relative latecomer to climbing, she started at age 21 and since completed her first 8A a little more than a year ago. The now 30-year-old, who is also a researcher at CERN in Switzerland, has since sent 19 boulders rated 8A or harder, including New Base Line (8B+), which she accomplished last year.
Compass North was established in May 2022 by Clément Lechaptois. Since then it has been climbed around 8 times, including a flash by the one and only Daniel Woods in 2022.
The boulder traverses out of a 50-degree roof from the bottom of a cave, where it starts on the same hold as Fuck the System (8C+).
Most climbers rate the route as a soft 8B+ because of how crimpy it is. It takes 16 hand movements to reach the jug before the easy top-out, and the boulder’s crux is particularly crimpy and steep. It has three moves toward the bottom, the first of which is a large cross move from a small right-hand crimp to another sharp crimp. From these two bad crimps, the feet are cut and shifted, leading to a right hand match into a weird small split pocket from bad feet.
Since August last year, Fabbri sent four 8B or harder boulders and she doesn’t show signs of stopping! With her HQ so close to the Magic Wood Boulder Paradise, we can only wait to see her attempt at From Dirt.
Featured image: @siarafabbri