During this late autumn and winter, Sean has been on a sending spree , part of which was flashing Slasher (8B) and redpointing Black Lung (8B). Later, he shut the Doors of Perception (8C), by making the FA in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. During this sending madness, he also stopped in California, where he opened Devilution, a potential 8C+ project.
Only one month into 2024, he hopped again on the sending train, and he stopped at Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks in California, where he made the first ascent of Devilution.
A variation of the legendary Evilution (8A+) on the iconic Peabody Boulder, Devilution is a low start that adds two more moves to the highball testpiece.
As Sean described it in his Instagram post, “Devil adds 2 moves into Evil”, his new beta implies starting off on a bad pinch followed by a long reach to the start of the initial line. This new crux on limited foot positions with no texture possibly adds three more grades to the climb,with Seanproposing an 8C+ difficulty..
After climbing The Grand Illusion (8C) in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Box Therapy (8C/+) in Rocky Mountain National Park in 2020, Sean is perhaps one of the most prolific and well-rounded climbers in the United States. In 2021, he also sent Bibliographie (9b+) and won three gold medals in the IFSC circuit.
Bailey was a frontrunner to join Team USA at the Olympics in Paris this past competition season, but he did not make the final cut after losing his shot for the Olympic boarding ticket at the Pan American Games last fall.
Featured image: @seanbailey/@johnkasaian