Just earlier this year, after sending his first 9b+, Mejorando la Samfaina in Margalef, Spain, climber Jorge Diaz-Rullo apparently developed a taste for the grade, sending Bibliographie last week.
First climbed by Alex Megos in 2020, Bibliographie has been on Jorge’s list for a couple of years. Since its FA, the route has been climbed by Stefano Ghisolfi, Sean Bailey, and Seb Bouin, all agreeing to the downgrade from the initial 9c to a 9b+.
After leaving the Ceuse wall empty-handed earlier this year, Diaz-Rullo came back to get his revenge, completing half of his master-project list which also contains Cafe Colombia (9b) in Margalef left to be sent.
Jorge started working on Bibliographie in the summer of 2021, one year after Megos’ FA, but found himself in difficulty to solve the boulder problem. It took him four visits including the initial one – another in 2022, then this early spring in 2023, and this last one—to be able to clip the chains on the route. After approximately 60 attempts and tons of frustrations, as he stated, even falling two moves below the anchor, Jorge didn’t give up and finished his ordeal on the 16th of October.
At 24 years old, Jorge is one of the up-and-comers in the world of hard-grade climbing. With Mejorando la Samfaina (9b+) on top of his ticklist along with other legendary routes such as Sharma’s La Planta de Shiva (9b) and the infamous Ali Hulk (extension) (9b) being just a few of the lines he sent in the last years.
As a former climber on the youth IFSC circuit, it was only natural that he would turn to hard climbing at a certain point. Jorge’s last participation in the circuit was at the European Youth Championships in Brussels in 2018, earning him 28th place in the junior boulder discipline.
With two 9b+ climbs under his belt, we’re waiting for him to send Cafe Colombia by the end of the year!
Featured image: @jorge.diazrullo/📸 @mtnz.adri
